The flight to Heathrow from San Francisco took the northern route and came down the UK in the middle of the country. As we descended and could see the countryside, it seemed that every square foot of land was managed by the hand of man in some fashion. In a holding pattern over London, we could easily see the Thames and most of the city itself. We even got a clear view of the London Eye, but it was also the closest we got to London. Being country folk, this was perfectly fine with us! After a short shuttle ride, we picked up a rental car (no, Mom didn't jump on the back of a bike for her part of the trip). Actually, since they didn't have the car we wanted, they offered us a minivan at 'no extra charge' which we accepted - NOT our best decision of the trip.

On the way down to Devon, we happened by Stonehenge (the real one). As it turns out, only about three of the stones arranged here are from the original, prehistoric structure (dated to about 3,000 BC). The rest of the stones were the result of 'reconstructions' by the Romans and others starting around 2,000 BC. Today it is a tourist attraction situated along the A303 (how convenient). Ann is getting a strolling history lesson from the hand set as we walked around the perimeter.

As we approach Newton Abbott, we realized that the upgrade to the minivan was indeed a bad decision. These cars are NOT parked! Everyone is traveling at about 40 mph (or more). Behind the foliage of the hedgerows may be a granite wall!. Normally, if a standard 8 foot lane width is available, there is a painted line down the middle of the road. Obviously the paved portion of this road is less than 16 feet wide - quite normal for country lanes!

The first week of our visit was based out of Sampson's Farm. We had a suite that included two bedrooms, a living room, and a kitchen. The main building housed a lounge and dining room with its' own resident chef. It's roof is thatched in a traditional style. Its a 30 year roof, although it does require a bit of 'tarting up' every 5 years or so.

We took a quick trip down to Paignton. Mom lived just over the hill from the harbor as a kid. Most of Britain's tides run about 25 feet, so at low tide you can drive out to your boat and do hull maintenance. Note the sailboats with twin keels and a stout rudder post, effectively providing a tripod for it to stand on when it's left high and dry!

These two, Paul and Sylvia, were responsible for organizing the family reunion at Paul's squash club in Newton Abbot. Kin from all around England came to see Auntie Gwen (and meet their American cousins). Although a bit overwhelming, it was great fun! It was the first time in a long time these folks had gotten together for something other than a funeral or wedding.

That same evening, most of the adult cousins and Mom went to a pub in Totnes to carry on the get together without little ones running wild. British pubs aren't like American bars in that they are gathering places for locals to get together and swap stories. Most also serve food and are a substitute for traditional restaurants (which are scarce in rural areas).

The next day, Paul and Anne played tour guides as we drove through Cornwall to Land's End (at the south western tip of England). Paul (Mom's sister's eldest son) and Anne were married on the same day as we were. Prior to us going to England, they came to California in February and we celebrated our mutual 25th wedding anniversaries in Yosemite Valley (where we were married).

On the way back to Heathrow, we stopped in Martock to visit the graveyard at the church (built in 1228 and still in daily use). We found and photographed the headstones of Jym's great grandfather and a grand uncle (and their wives). Then it was on to Heathrow to put Mom on the plane for home so we could trade the van in on a pair of bikes.

We picked up the rental bikes, a BMW R1150RT and a BMW K1200LT, and after braving the traffic getting out of Reading, we stopped to attach GPSs and rearrange baggage. Then it was off to Newton Abbot again to repack clothes for the wander around the island. We had left most of our stuff with Paul and Anne, and this time we were able to use his Dad's house as a base.

The next day, we went back down to Paignton for 'Bike Night'. We got there early, so we talked with a lady and her kids and got a lesson in beach huts. Each one is individually owned and they pay rent to the city for the land it sits on (about 80 square feet). The rent for those facing the beach is higher than for those on the back side. All in all, a very handy arrangement for storing surf boards, bikes, barbecues, and other beach stuff, and they double as changing rooms.

Paignton Bike Nights are held every Wednesday evening from 6 to 10 from the end of May through the end of September on Paignton Seafront. Organized under the banner "BMAD" (Bikers Make a Difference), it is a charity event and costs £1.00 to enter the seafront (although you can walk in for free). There are usually a few vendors, food, and at times live music. The day we were there (the first bike night of 2004), more than 1,800 bikes showed up! There was everything from Vespas to Harleys, with many vintage bikes (some we'd never heard of before) to some barely roadworthy - cobbled together trikes (one with a scooter on the back).

On our way north to Wales, we stopped in Taunton at the Somerset Record Office. After being processed and given an ID card good for most British record offices, we were allowed into the records room where several other researchers gave us pointers and advise on accessing the genealogical records available. Although we only stayed a couple of hours, we did manage to find some useful bits of information about Jym's ancestors. Then it was off to Wales.