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This is the tour log from the second part of June

Over the Divide - Again {61k}

After leaving Colorado, we battled our way northwest for two days through high winds that always came from the side (no matter which way we were headed). We crossed the divide and the great divide basin (where water can't flow to either ocean).

Where are Those Tetons? {61k}

Dropping down from another divide crossing (which treated us to snow, rain, sleet, and hail - all within one hour), we had to check the map to see if that was the Tetons dropping out of the clouds.

Jackson Hole and the Tetons {41k}

Yes, we found them, and entered the Grand Tetons National Park.

Old Faithful {21k}

Traveling north, through the John D. Rockefeller, Jr. Memorial Parkway, we entered the southern end of Yellowstone (the first national park). Crossing the divide three more times (the passes are getting lower) we stopped at upper geyser basin which contains Old Faithful. Probably the best known geyser in the world, it is fairly predictable, and bleachers are set there for the crowds. Although it used to erupt at an average interval of an hour, earthquake activity (and it's not even in California) in recent years have lengthened that to about 80 minutes.

Ann's Favorite - Anemone Geyser {75k}

By the path through Geyser Hill is Anemone Geyser. It is very active (erupting every 5 to 10 minutes), although small. After the shallow depression fills with water, it erupts and throws water up to ten feet high, and then drains with toilet flushing sound effects. Great Fun!

Castle Geyser Showing Off {38k}

A little further down the basin is Castle Geyser. Perhaps the oldest in the basin, it spews about 90 feet for about 20 minutes, then enters a steam phase that lasts for another half hour. It erupts about twice a day.

Beehive Indicator with Old Faithful {29k}

The treat of the day was to be there when Beehive erupted! Most geysers have an 'indicator' behavior that precedes eruption. It may be sounds, steam, overflow, or other activity. In Beehive's case, it is a small vent near the main cone that shoots water 20 feet in the air for a minute or two (this time while Old Faithful was erupting in the Background).

Beehive Geyser {15k}

Five to twenty minutes after the indicator has stopped, the main cone (which has an aperture like a nozzle) erupts. It shoots water to heights of about 180 feet, and lasts up to five minutes.

Although intervals and eruption times may be predictable, each eruption of a specific geyser is unique and the displays vary greatly. Yellowstone certainly captured our attention this time with it's displays of thermodynamics.

Yellowstone River Valley {28k}

After leaving Gardiner, MT (where were entertained by a rodeo as we did laundry) we traveled north through the Yellowstone River Valley with the Absaroka Mountain Range to the east.

Valley Living {54k}

Thinking we were traveling along the valley floor, we were surprised to find a lower, smaller river valley as we rounded a bend. Wonderful scenery to ride through!

Occasionally Great Falls {55k}

At Great Falls, we found the 'falls' on the Missouri that Lewis & Clark named the area for. After the dams (on both falls) were built, they should have renamed it to "Occasionally Great Falls". It only reaches it's former glory after heavy rains when it overflows the length of the dam.

Entering Glacier National Park {46k}

After leaving Great Falls, where you can see 50 miles or more in any direction from a rise as small as a freeway overpass, we headed for Glacier National Park where the mountains (and glaciers) start closing in around us.

Saint Mary Lake {64k}

Heading from east to west along Going to the Sun Road, we first came across Saint Mary Lake (a glacial lake filling the valley). Next, we started the climb to Logan Pass.

Going to the Sun Road {45k}

In this 180 degree panorama, you can see the valley right before the pass (and the decent into the cloud on the west side).

A Carousel for Missoula {66k}

After driving in the rain for two days, we arrived in Missoula (to get new tires) and found a wonderful carousel. A Carousel For Missoula was a community effort by volunteers and local fund-raising which was then given to the city.

Carving Shop {38k}

All of the horses were 'adopted' by community groups and individuals who got to design their charges. The carving and painting was then done by volunteers. It was all the inspiration of one local man who started carving the ponies in his garage. Pictured on the right is one of the current projects in the carving shop.

Smoke Jumper Visitor's Center {37k}

Just outside of Missoula, at the airport, is the largest (and oldest) smoke jumper's center in the country. It is home to about 40 of the 400 smoke jumpers nation-wide (about 25 of whom are female). Outside, we watched the rookies do practice jumps into the trees up on the hill. These are the elite wild land firefighters that are dropped in as first response to remote fires (to prevent them from becoming bigger, more dangerous forest fires).

Fort Steele, BC {37k}

Continuing north into Canada, we stopped off to tour Fort Steele, a restored (and reconstructed) historic site. Superintendent Steele of the Mounties established the fort in 1864 to quell tension between traders and indians (which he did peacefully).

The Village Blacksmith {48k}

The blacksmith shop has been in operation since the beginning, and is still used by the farrier for the horses at the fort, and by a couple of other blacksmiths for ornamental iron items. We had a long talk with one of them and picked up many pointers.

Daily Scenery {33k}

Starting our journey through the Canadian Rockies, we were subjected to scenery such as this at every bend in the road (don't you feel sorry for us?). This was our entry into Kootenay National Park.

Bikes, stuff, and us made it to Banff {28k}


The result of a decision made in Phoenix four weeks earlier (after a few days of 120 degree riding weather), pointed us to this spot. And, to answer the original question, yes, enough snow has melted to allow travel through Banff and Jasper National Parks. The environment is much better than traveling through the south to Key West at this time of the year.

City of Banff {41k}

On the left is the City of Banff with Tunnel Mountain (the little one in the center), Lake Minnewanka in the valley in the background, and the Bow River making it's way around it all. This is the overview from Sulphur Mountain.

Getting our views the easy way {31k}

Lest you get the mistaken impression that we hiked up the mountain to take the last picture, we'll set the record straight - we rode the gondola up. From the top of Sulphur Mountain the views are incredible (and long).

Hard Way to Make a Living {62k}

On the top, we came across some female Big Horn Sheep (and a lamb) trying to scratch out a lunch from the surroundings. They apparently find enough to eat (they're here), but we don't see how.

Lake Louise from the Ski Lift {40k}

Further up the Bow River Valley (which runs north from Banff) is Lake Louise (the town and lake). There is another gondola here (actually a ski lift) - who could resist?

Canoes for Rent {67k}


At Lake Louise, you have the opportunity to get a little exercise on a glacial lake nestled among the tall peaks of the continental divide.

More Traveling Scenery {63k}

Travelling further north along the Icefields Parkway, we continue to be subjected to the most distracting scenery. Makes it very difficult to concentrate on driving.

Cruisin' the Glacier {43k}

At the Columbia Icefields (between Banff & Jasper National Parks) we took a ride onto the Athabasca Glacier. These vehicles are made in Calgary, are all wheel drive, with a top speed of 12 mph, and are not intimidated by a little glacier.

Glacier Top {47k}

The Columbia Icefield is the largest body of ice in the Rockies, feeds many glaciers and drains into three different oceans. This 'little' view of it is deceiving - it is over 100 feet thick at the edge before it falls off onto the glacier.

Taking in the long view {49k}

Further north, in Jasper, we rode another gondola up another mountain for another long view - tough work, but we persevere! The clouds were playing peek-a-boo with the peaks in all directions.

Jasper {29k}

This is the overview of Jasper and the Athabasca River. We decided to return south through the parks rather than head east to the Canadian Plains - need more mountain scenery. We'll be back to spend more time in this corner of the world!

To Jump, or Not To Jump? {26k}

Outside of Fort Macleod, Alberta is a World Heritage Site - an indian 'buffalo jump' where small herds were stampeded over a ledge. Although this technique had been used for over 6,500 years, this particular site was named after a young brave who wanted a closer look at the buffalo hunt from a different vantage point (underneath). When he was later found, Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump became the name of the site. The interpretive center that was built into the side of the ridge near the archaeological dig (that began in 1948) is extremely well done.

Rustic RV {54k}

The Remington-Alberta Carriage Centre in Cardston is the result of the donation of 49 horse drawn vehicles to the Province of Alberta. The original collection has grown to over 250. All kinds of carriages, wagons, sleighs, surreys, sulkies, and coaches are represented. This is an example of the 'RV' that took settlers across the country.

Restoration Shop {50k}

Included at the centre is a restoration shop that also does commercial projects (when the museum's work load allows). We got a brief but very informative lesson from one of the restorers (who missed his lunch to show us what is done in the shop).

Racks of Stuff {50k}

Not all of the collection can be highlighted in 'vignette' displays, so most of the pieces sit on shelves (lots of shelves). Some have been restored to mint condition while others are left in 'last used' condition. The centre also maintains 17 horses and offers carriage rides. This is a MUST SEE museum! We could have spent several days here.

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