After leaving Colorado, we battled our way northwest for
two days through high winds that always came from the side (no matter which way
we were headed). We crossed the divide and the great divide basin (where water
can't flow to either ocean). |
Dropping down from another divide crossing (which treated
us to snow, rain, sleet, and hail - all within one hour), we had to check the
map to see if that was the Tetons dropping out of the clouds. |
Yes, we found them, and entered the Grand Tetons National
Park. |
Traveling north, through the John D. Rockefeller, Jr.
Memorial Parkway, we entered the southern end of Yellowstone (the first
national park). Crossing the divide three more times (the passes are getting
lower) we stopped at upper geyser basin which contains Old Faithful. Probably
the best known geyser in the world, it is fairly predictable, and bleachers are
set there for the crowds. Although it used to erupt at an average interval of
an hour, earthquake activity (and it's not even in California) in recent years
have lengthened that to about 80 minutes. |
By the path through Geyser Hill is Anemone Geyser. It is
very active (erupting every 5 to 10 minutes), although small. After the shallow
depression fills with water, it erupts and throws water up to ten feet high,
and then drains with toilet flushing sound effects. Great Fun! |
A little further down the basin is Castle Geyser. Perhaps
the oldest in the basin, it spews about 90 feet for about 20 minutes, then
enters a steam phase that lasts for another half hour. It erupts about twice a
day. |
The treat of the day was to be there when Beehive erupted!
Most geysers have an 'indicator' behavior that precedes eruption. It may be
sounds, steam, overflow, or other activity. In Beehive's case, it is a small
vent near the main cone that shoots water 20 feet in the air for a minute or
two (this time while Old Faithful was erupting in the
Background). |
Five to twenty minutes after the indicator has stopped,
the main cone (which has an aperture like a nozzle) erupts. It shoots water to
heights of about 180 feet, and lasts up to five minutes.
Although
intervals and eruption times may be predictable, each eruption of a specific
geyser is unique and the displays vary greatly. Yellowstone certainly captured
our attention this time with it's displays of thermodynamics. |
After leaving Gardiner, MT (where were entertained by a
rodeo as we did laundry) we traveled north through the Yellowstone River Valley
with the Absaroka Mountain Range to the east. |
Thinking we were traveling along the valley floor, we were
surprised to find a lower, smaller river valley as we rounded a bend. Wonderful
scenery to ride through! |
At Great Falls, we found the 'falls' on the Missouri that
Lewis & Clark named the area for. After the dams (on both falls) were
built, they should have renamed it to "Occasionally Great Falls". It only
reaches it's former glory after heavy rains when it overflows the length of the
dam. |
After leaving Great Falls, where you can see 50 miles or
more in any direction from a rise as small as a freeway overpass, we headed for
Glacier National Park where the mountains (and glaciers) start closing in
around us. |
Heading from east to west along Going to the Sun Road, we
first came across Saint Mary Lake (a glacial lake filling the valley). Next, we
started the climb to Logan Pass. |
In this 180 degree panorama, you can see the valley right
before the pass (and the decent into the cloud on the west
side). |
After driving in the rain for two days, we arrived in
Missoula (to get new tires) and found a wonderful carousel.
A Carousel For Missoula was a
community effort by volunteers and local fund-raising which was then given to
the city. |
All of the horses were 'adopted' by community groups and
individuals who got to design their charges. The carving and painting was then
done by volunteers. It was all the inspiration of one local man who started
carving the ponies in his garage. Pictured on the right is one of the current
projects in the carving shop. |
Just outside of Missoula, at the airport, is the largest
(and oldest) smoke jumper's center in the country. It is home to about 40 of
the 400 smoke jumpers nation-wide (about 25 of whom are female). Outside, we
watched the rookies do practice jumps into the trees up on the hill. These are
the elite wild land firefighters that are dropped in as first response to
remote fires (to prevent them from becoming bigger, more dangerous forest
fires). |
Continuing north into Canada, we stopped off to tour
Fort Steele, a restored (and
reconstructed) historic site. Superintendent Steele of the Mounties established
the fort in 1864 to quell tension between traders and indians (which he did
peacefully). |
The blacksmith shop has been in operation since the
beginning, and is still used by the farrier for the horses at the fort, and by
a couple of other blacksmiths for ornamental iron items. We had a long talk
with one of them and picked up many pointers. |
Starting our journey through the Canadian Rockies, we were
subjected to scenery such as this at every bend in the road (don't you feel
sorry for us?). This was our entry into Kootenay National Park. |
The result of a decision made in Phoenix four weeks
earlier (after a few days of 120 degree riding weather), pointed us to this
spot. And, to answer the original question, yes, enough snow has melted to
allow travel through Banff and Jasper National Parks. The environment is much
better than traveling through the south to Key West at this time of the year.
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On the left is the City of Banff with Tunnel Mountain (the
little one in the center), Lake Minnewanka in the valley in the background, and
the Bow River making it's way around it all. This is the overview from Sulphur
Mountain. |
Lest you get the mistaken impression that we hiked up the
mountain to take the last picture, we'll set the record straight - we rode the
gondola up. From the top of Sulphur Mountain the views are incredible (and
long). |
On the top, we came across some female Big Horn Sheep (and
a lamb) trying to scratch out a lunch from the surroundings. They apparently
find enough to eat (they're here), but we don't see how. |
Further up the Bow River Valley (which runs north from
Banff) is Lake Louise (the town and lake). There is another gondola here
(actually a ski lift) - who could resist? |
At Lake Louise, you have the opportunity to get a little
exercise on a glacial lake nestled among the tall peaks of the continental
divide. |
Travelling further north along the Icefields Parkway, we
continue to be subjected to the most distracting scenery. Makes it very
difficult to concentrate on driving. |
At the Columbia Icefields (between Banff & Jasper
National Parks) we took a ride onto the Athabasca Glacier. These vehicles are
made in Calgary, are all wheel drive, with a top speed of 12 mph, and are not
intimidated by a little glacier. |
The Columbia Icefield is the largest body of ice in the
Rockies, feeds many glaciers and drains into three different oceans. This
'little' view of it is deceiving - it is over 100 feet thick at the edge before
it falls off onto the glacier. |
Further north, in Jasper, we rode another gondola up
another mountain for another long view - tough work, but we persevere! The
clouds were playing peek-a-boo with the peaks in all directions. |
This is the overview of Jasper and the Athabasca River. We
decided to return south through the parks rather than head east to the Canadian
Plains - need more mountain scenery. We'll be back to spend more time in this
corner of the world! |
Outside of Fort Macleod, Alberta is a World Heritage Site
- an indian 'buffalo jump' where small herds were stampeded over a ledge.
Although this technique had been used for over 6,500 years, this particular
site was named after a young brave who wanted a closer look at the buffalo hunt
from a different vantage point (underneath). When he was later found,
Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump
became the name of the site. The interpretive center that was built into the
side of the ridge near the archaeological dig (that began in 1948) is extremely
well done. |
The Remington-Alberta Carriage Centre in
Cardston is the result of the donation of 49 horse drawn vehicles to the
Province of Alberta. The original collection has grown to over 250. All kinds
of carriages, wagons, sleighs, surreys, sulkies, and coaches are represented.
This is an example of the 'RV' that took settlers across the
country. |
Included at the centre is a restoration shop that also
does commercial projects (when the museum's work load allows). We got a brief
but very informative lesson from one of the restorers (who missed his lunch to
show us what is done in the shop). |
Not all of the collection can be highlighted in 'vignette'
displays, so most of the pieces sit on shelves (lots of shelves). Some have
been restored to mint condition while others are left in 'last used' condition.
The centre also maintains 17 horses and offers carriage rides. This is a MUST
SEE museum! We could have spent several days here. |
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