My husband and I are thinking about an extended two-up
cross country ride this summer and have narrowed our bike choices down to the
RT BMW and the Goldwing. After your extensive experience on the Beemer could
you please comment on these choices.
As far as your choice between the RT and Goldwing, I would
consider them to be suited for two different types of riding. The Goldwing is
truly well suited for two up touring. It is large, stable and very comfortable
for both rider and passenger. Long days won't cause undue stress on either of
you. The RT, on the other hand, is a balance between a sport ride, and a
tourer. It loves twisty back roads, and will tolerate long bouts of freeway. It
is lighter than a full-on touring bike, but not as comfortable over the long
haul (particularly for a passenger).
We chose the RTs because neither of
us carried a passenger and we didn't plan on many high-milage days. Besides, we
both prefer the smaller backroads to freeways - the twistier, the better. The
RT is more like a Honda ST1100 than a Goldwing.
Another bike you might
want to look at (if you haven't already) is BMW's K1200LT. It is the Goldwing's
direct competition. Having test ridden it a few times, it is very capable of
carving the canyons at a spirited pace and is MUCH more comfortable than the RT
for both rider and passenger. |
I don't understand why you bothered to lug a computer
on your trip. You can get free access at just about any library in the country.
That's how we communicated, and didn't have the bother of lugging and watching
out for a computer.
You have to consider the length of the trip. It wasn't a
vacation, it was how we lived for that period of our lives. Although library
and 'cyber-cafe' computers are abundant, none of them had our finances, bank
account access, working copy of our web site, maps for the gps, and innumerable
other things readily available on them. If I wanted to work on updating the
website at 3 in the morning, I could (and did) with my own computer. Besides,
where else can one store 5,700 digital photos? The laptop we have lived in the
top box of my bike, and never gave us a bit of trouble (in fact we still use it
on trips). |
Enjoyed your article and pictures in Rider magazine. I
am particularly interested in the digital camera used for the wonderful
pictures. Would you mind telling me the model and basic specs of the camera. I
have a Fuji S602Zoom and a number of my pictures are a little fuzzy. Is it me?
Or is it the camera? Your pictures are as sharp as sharp can be!
Thanks for praise of the pictures. Actually your camera is
more capable than the one I used on our trip. It was an Olympus 2020Z - a 2
MegaPixel, 3x optical zoom. Out of 5,700 pictures we took on the trip, one
would hope that at least a few would be acceptable. Probably at least half will
never be shown to anyone because of quality - usually my fault. Among my most
common errors were camera movement, hand holding the camera in low light, not
being aware of what the autofocus actually focused on, and not using a fill
flash for shadowed faces. Before I sent the pictures to Rider, I did a bit of
manipulation of the raw photos to enhance the pixel count, contrast, saturation
and sharpness. I submitted a photo to the Rider Photo Contest taken with the
same camera on the Blue Ridge Parkway. It won the grand prize in the December
issue (also on our web site). The prize was a 4 MegaPixel Canon - that I can
still take bad pictures with. The big advantage with digital photography, is
that it doesn't cost anything to take LOTS of pictures. So I take a picture
that I think will be great, then take three or four more variations 'for
insurance'. As often as not, it's one of the variations that is the best
shot. |
A question: never mentioned in the article was the
type of clothing that you wore. I'm sure you encountered all kinds of weather
with temperatures of varying extremes. Could you please give me an idea of the
type of riding suit or pants and jacket plus gloves and boots that you wore on
the trip.
In answer to your question on clothing, the basic
protective riding suit was a BMW cordura jacket and pants combination. I think
it was called the Kalahari Suit, but it seems they don't offer it any more. It
has a zip out, waterproof, Gore Tex lining. We normally wore it over jeans and
long sleeve T-shirt. When the temperature got low, we'd add long johns, sweat
shirt, and an electric vest. With the RT's heated grips, a pair of summer
gloves were all we usually needed. When it got hot, we'd bypass the suit's
pants and add a Marsee cool vest under the jacket. The vest is soaked in water
with the excess rung out a bit. It gets you a bit damp, but the concept of
evaporative cooling worked very well (even in Death Valley on a summer day)!
With the appropriate layers, we were rarely uncomfortable. |
This is something I have always wanted to do, but have
always thought you must drop out of society to do it. Leaving our home for
extended times when we retire seems to be the problem. I am still looking for a
solution as I am sure you must have found. I am not willing to give up the home
base but my wife is.
As far as extended traveling is concerned, even the full
timers in RVs have to have some sort of permanent mailing address, even if it
is a commercial mail forwarding company. Some friends of ours live on a boat
and travel up and down the west coast. Their mail forwarding service is in
Florida. We live on a farm along with Ann's brother. He opened our mail and
e-mailed us concerning anything that couldn't wait until we returned. We would
then take care of whatever it was via the internet, phone, or mail from
wherever we were. If it was local and had to be done in person, we would e-mail
him instructions and he would take care of it. The other thing that made the
trip possible for us was to have the laptop along and an 800 number to the
internet. That way, we could conduct our finances, handle correspondence, etc.
from wherever we were. Even most campgrounds have phone hookups for local and
800 number access. We didn't drop out, but rather just took a leave of absence
from local responsibilities. The key is to have someone you trust to handle the
occasional local situations that need your attention. |
I was wondering what kind of camera you used in your
travels and for taking the pics online? They are great, clear pictures and I 'm
interested in your opinion because you have done the things I want to do and
you seem sensible, and obviously blessed with funds to do all these things.
The camera we used for both the article photos and the web
site was an Olympus 2020Z. It is no longer being sold, having been replaced
with newer, more capable models. It is a digital, with a 2.1 MegaPixel imager,
and a 3x optical zoom. We took over 5,700 pictures on that trip, so at least a
few were decent. For the web site, we reduced the image size and increased the
compression rate on the jpegs for better download times. That camera also took
the picture that won the Grand Prize (a 4 MegaPixel Canon camera) in Rider's
first photo contest (in the December 2002 issue). As with any camera, shoot
lots of pictures, and with practice, you end up with a higher percentage of
good shots (the more I practice, the luckier I get).
As for funds, our
biggest pay raise was when the kids graduated from college and were self
sufficient. We were then able to save and invest at a more reasonable rate.
With a bit of imagination and lots of desire, many people have taken longer
trips with far fewer resources than we had available. |
Of interest was your choice in motorcycles. I have
been looking at road bikes and have narrowed my choice down to the BMW line. My
choice is between the 1150rt and the 1200gt. Beyond performance differences my
main concern (as it should be for all long distance riders) is comfort. While
the 1150 is an up-right position the 1200 (this bike was new in 03) has the
rider leaning forward. I know that rider positioning is a personal thing but I
was wondering if you had any insights into the pros and cons of each?
As for choice of bikes, we have toured the 11 western
states on a pair of older Honda Magnas (mine a V65, and Ann's a V45). The only
thing that made touring on cruisers tolerable for us was having custom seats
made at the Corbin factory (before they started using foam that is hard as a
rock). The thing about touring, is the ability to move around and change
positions while riding. If I am forced in one position (as on a cruiser or
sport bike), I tend to 'seize up' and the ride becomes a test of personal
endurance rather than a relaxing ride through unexplored territory. An upright,
neutral position allows me to move in either direction (feet on the rear pegs,
out front - with bars, or under you).
I also don't like a lot of weight
on my wrists. I have a throttle lock so that I can relax either arm whenever
the opportunity allows.
Another item of consideration is a good
windscreen. Although I don't particularly like looking through it, with the RT,
I can adjust it so that it blocks the wind blast off my body and still look
over it (I opted for the taller windscreen from BMW). Having ridden dual sports
a lot, I also tend to favor a bike that allows me to stand on the pegs and use
my legs as active suspension components on rough sections of road.
When
we were considering bikes for the trip, we test rode a few ('99 models), and
felt that for long distance touring on paved roads, the RTs suited us both very
well. It's an advantage to have both bikes the same, it limits the amount of
spares you need to carry (cables, plugs, special tools, etc.). If you are going
to be riding two up, I would look at the LT or a GoldWing, the RT would get
tiresome for the passenger after a few days. |
In my motorcycle travels I've always used 35mm cameras
because of lens choices. Dealing with dozens of rolls of film is problematic.
In an article in a magazine it mentioned you used a digital camera. I was
wondering if you would share a little digital knowledge. Like what brand and
model. Things you liked and disliked about digital. From your pictures I'd say
you figured how to make it work. Nice job!
The camera we used for the seven month trip was an Olympus
C2020z. It is a 2 Megapixel camera with a 3x optical zoom. Since it was
purchased (in 1999) the technology has changed dramatically. It is now
possible to get a 6 Megapixel camera with 8x optical zoom and image
stabilization for under a thousand. The old Olympus did well though. One of the
pictures we took with it won a grand prize in a Rider photo contest. The prize
was a 4 Megapixel Canon camera. Recently, I was taking pictures of my wife and
son while on the freeway when the wrist strap separated and the camera left my
bike while doing 65 mph. After doubling back, we found it by the side of the
road, and other than some cosmetic damage (road rash), it still works! While
traveling, we also carry a laptop computer so we can transfer the photos when
the cards fill up. Once we have enough images, we burn a couple of CDs and send
them home. On the US trip, we took over 5,000 photos - something I never could
have done with film. I used to shoot a lot of 35 mm (several bodies and many
lenses), but since we started using the digitals, I haven't even touched our
film cameras. Another thing you might want to try is to bring along a tripod so
that you can compose a shot with you in it. While many people will try to be
helpful and take your picture for you, they put you right in the middle of the
frame and ignore the bike, the mountains, the lake, etc. |
My wife and I have been dreaming about taking eight
months to a year off, and motorcycling the countryside. Your story in Rider
magazine has inspired us to give it a go! The article gave us a lot of great
ideas, but we still have several questions about how you put it together and
pulled it off.
What percentage of time did you spend in hotel/motels,
camping, staying with friends (through the whole trip)?
How did you find
accommodations (lodging, campsites, etc.)?
What was your average daily
expense for living (food, lodging, gasoline, etc.)?
What was the
essential gear necessary for the trip (what was taken and what could have been
left behind)?
Lets see if I can answer your questions (in
order):
The nights' accommodations ran about 60% hotel/motel/B&B,
25% camping, the remainder with friends and family. Had we been even more
flexible in our routing, we could have spent time with internet acquaintances
and other travelers we met along the road.
We very rarely planned where
we would stay for the night. When we entered a new state or provence, we would
stop at a visitor's center and pick up a copy of a 'discount hotel/motel
guide'. Sometimes they covered more than one state. Another source was a AAA
travel guide. While we ate lunch, we would decide how far we were traveling
that day and see what was available in the area we were likely to end up in.
Sometimes (but rarely) the lack of readily available choices would change our
destination. Only a couple of times in the entire trip did we have to spend
significant time hunting for a place to stay. Most of the times we camped were
in national or state parks. We also camped in KOAs (pick up KOA guide which
shows where they all are). You can also check the internet for 'Two Wheel Only'
style campgrounds. Once we camped in a city park (with their permission) and
watched a little league ball game for our evening's entertainment. The attitude
to keep in mind is a common Kiwi (New Zealand) phrase - 'No Worries'. If you
plan to locate your nights' stay by sunset, you shouldn't have a problem.
Although we didn't really break down expenses into categories (we
didn't need a heart attack), we averaged $160 a day. Keep in mind that it
includes regular service intervals on two new BMWs (not inexpensive), tires for
both bikes (4 sets each), souvenirs, touristy things (train rides, kayak
rentals, guided tours, etc.), museum and park entrance fees (buy a National Park
pass -$50 - if you are going to visit more than a couple), and similar
"non-essential" expenses. After all, what's the point of going if you are not
going to explore the areas you visit?
As for what to pack and what to
leave behind, that is a much more difficult question to answer. It depends on
how much room you have and whether or not you are minimalists. First, consider
what may be necessary for the bikes - tire patch kit and a method to reinflate
the tire, a quart of oil, basic tools, maybe a spare cable (clutch or
throttle), and anything else that experience has taught you about your bikes.
If you are camping, can you live without a tent? Will you be cooking at your
camp? How many changes of clothes will you be comfortable with? My suggestion
would be to take a couple of multi-day camping trips (preferably including one
of a week or more) if you haven't already gotten your bike camping routine down
pat. Since we had two large bikes with lots of storage options, we took a tent
that we could stand up in, an air mattress with an 8 inch loft, an electric air
compressor to inflate it, and minimal cooking gear. Although we normally
stopped at a deli or grocery store for our evening snacks, we thought it a good
idea to be able to put together a meal if we had to. For clothing, I would
strongly recommend an extra pair of good walking/hiking boots. Hiking a couple
of miles along a park trail in motorcycle boots is not for the faint of heart!
A good, versatile riding suit will aid in comfort and safety. We prefer textile
with removable liners and also had both an electric vest and a cooling vest
(Marsee) which made adjusting for weather much easier. You will be visiting
many a laudromat, so you just have to figure out how often you want to do that
versus how much room you have available. We also took along a laptop computer
and had an ISP with local dial-up numbers across the US. A trip this long is
not a vacation, and you will need some method of paying bills, communicating
with friends and relatives, checking the weather forcast in the direction you
think you might be going (it could change your plans), etc. We also used it to
update our website so people could keep track of us. If you like to take
pictures (we took over 5,000), digital is easiest if you have a computer along.
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